Winner of the Fashion Scout SS20 Merit Award, Wen Pan’s third season collection explored the ‘beauty of brokenness, traces of human presence, Chinese ancient recluses and the 1990 grunge.’ Looking at the collection, you could get a sense of where each of these inspirations and explorations was displayed.
Oversized and draped silhouettes reminiscent of the clothing you’d expect a farmer girl too wear in the 1960’s, but with a cool and modern edge; the models each walked the catwalk with a hand full of dried long flower stems and what appeared to be wheat plants. The main colour pallet throughout the collection consisted of a mix of whites, sandy creams, muted greens and tertiary grey-blues. Linen layers and sheer silks were mixed with rough cottons and asymmetric cutting, textured with a contrasting mix of checks and floral patterns.
A particularly interesting piece came in the form of a dress. A-line, midi and oversized with a cami style top, this dress could have easily become boring. Instead Pan added an extra element of interest. Across the middle of the dress, angled down towards the calf, the material of the dress had been torn apart to expose a green-grey-blue under layer. Where the slash of the material was created threads were still visible, creating a distressed but pulled together effect. The pop of colour running through the dress adds intrigue and excitement on what could of otherwise been a bland look- the dress demonstrates how details can really elevate a look.
Another particularly captivating look encapsulated the juxtaposition between the grunge aesthetic with the cleaner choice of colour pallet. Three pieces expertly layered to create a interesting high fashion look that would be just as at home in the streets of London as it was on the catwalk. An oversized grey-sand trench, with distressed seams, mixed cuff sizes and a pale green and cream check panel on one shoulder was the standout piece from the look. Expertly paired with high waisted, wide leg and distressed trousers made using the same material at the panel in the trench, and a white vest top with single piece of material that ran from the right side of the bodice diagonally across the chest and over the shoulder. This top is another example of how Pan took something that could be basic and elevated it to create an interesting piece.
The Wen Pan SS20 collection perfectly incapsulated the themes it set out to show. The mix of cuts, silhouettes, patterns and construction juxtaposed and contrasted the light and airy fabrics and colours creating a high fashion and beautiful but easily wearable collection.
Photography - Sebastian Davies