Opening On Off AW20, icy white boiler suit silhouettes stormed down the runway splatted with deep black statement wording “All Power To The Imagination” a powerful contrast offering a prevailing message of hope for the rapidly changing climate of the fashion industry, a fundamental message to preserve the influence of artistic individuality and self-expression translated across the industry.
‘All Power to The Imagination’ a commanding name behind a authoritative runway, demanding attention, provoking the audience to consider societal matters at a time of revolutionary change and upheaval through design. A powerful and thought-provoking phrase renowned for being scrawled across the walls of Paris during the 1968 uprisings, delivered from a group of revolutionaries, avante-garde artists, intellectuals and theorists, each pro Dada and Surrealism; the anti-establishment.
Five designers, five collections, each offering a renewed take on this recognised message of hope, revolutionising and propelling the future of fashion.
Showcasing the classic British eccentricity of the brand, House of Sheldon Hall’s AW20 collection offers reimagined British flag graphics and colours, unconventional hand painted prints splattered across definitive pieces offering a rebellious take on a symbol of patriotism. A classic ball gown silhouette highlighted the reimagined prints, soft white mesh was gently layered forming a dramatic yet delicate skirt, the bodice shaped and ruffled in a playful manor presenting a print embracing the red, blue and white shades of the British flag. Combinations of experimental textiles, and intricate embroideries work alongside statement pieces of the collection and incorporate other vivacious shades such as purple, orange and gold to the colour palette.
Rebelling against the traditional rules of colours and prints IYANU AW20 conflicts the use of energetic prints against a vivid neon colour palette posing a sense of disrupted cohesion, a signature for the London based textile designer. Prints create disjointed patterns, colours unite in mesmerising the eye whilst satin sheen finishes provide a finalised element to garments. Finalising the aesthetic of the collection chains of paperclips are woven into the hair of models whilst gaudy makeup enhances the collection.
A prominent colour palette of black and red offers a passionate and lustful ambiance for Yan Dengyu AW20, colour offers subtle hits to the dominatrix aesthetic when combined with leather and fur placed alongside the sensual shades. A rebellious contrast is prominent through sharp tailoring juxtaposed against delicate draping, a conflict of design is prominent, a subtle nod to the notion of revolt, soft, apparently weightless furs are pooled with sharp tailored shoulders and dominating leathers gifting a latex style sheen.
404 Studio AW20 proposes a fresh take on traditional knitwear, classic textiles and techniques are disregarded, a reinvention of traditional, contemporary design. Offering a nod in the direction of anti-establishment, purposeful rebellion is prominent with neat reimagined rips scattered across the garments, formed by re-joining the fabric, fish net details and crochet style fabrics offer a perfected gaping effect to the collection. The distinctive colour palette offers no limits, teasing an arrayed of dulled rainbow shades, enhanced by the glitter of the fabrics.
Renowned for its edgy fashion, Zaful introduces a diverse capsule collection for AW20. Appealing to a millennial audience the collection embraces the aesthetics celebrated by Gen-Z, embracing digital creativity, melding nods to the vibrant past of the brand. Metallics and sequins propose a link to futurism, offering a high fashion take on rave wear, holographic detailing’s reference, hallucinogens associated with rave subculture. Colourful glasses and trainers are styled with pieces across the collection.