Malan Breton | AW20 The Rise of The Phoenix

Igniting his inner flame for AW20 Malan Breton channels his inspiration of the phoenix, drawn from the Firebird ballet, an opulent collection is born, much like the phoenix during its rebirth. Rich gowns and power suits transport you into an eccentric world of fantasy, each piece embodying the essence of luxury fashion. Captivated by the beauty and details you become absorbed within the collection, unable to look away, a common trend with Malan Breton designs.

Presenting the collection in three fierce sections, the audience is taken on a journey of the phoenix, from a fiery metamorphous to a rebirth, the electricity of techno fibres course through the designs.

Soft blush shades introduce the collection, calming to the soul, we experience a lush delicacy. Garments composed of tulle are layered and decadently detailed, expanded upon by faux fur and sequins, complimented by metallic grey accents and stylings.

A silky, floor length, blush, faux fur coat graced the runway. Detailed by silver accents on the cuffs and lined with a sheen satin silver, colours caress one another, allowing for the garment to act as a statement piece, faux fur as soft as the shade it beholds.

Within the collection trains and feathers embody the persona of the phoenix. Swarvoski crystals radiate from pieces, acting as a resemblance for the embers left behind as it transitions through its journey.

Remaining consistent to statement silhouettes, Breton once again presents powerful suits, transitioning flawlessly from royal blue brocades to rich blacks, further expanding the colour palette for AW20.

Black lace, details over a midnight black suit, providing subtle notes of elegance and intricacy. The delicacy of the lace juxtaposes against the powerful silhouette of the suit, a beautiful disparity, yet not too drastic so as not to overwhelm the design, a theatrical showcase of the phoenix is embodied throughout the collection.

Designs explore techniques of couture, one statement piece within the collection to resemble this, included a black floor length dress. Offering a ballgown silhouette, bead embellishments covered the garment, forming glamourous elaborate patterns across the fabric, a nod to the intricate detailing’s associated with couture gowns.

Fierce injections of reds appear across the final segment of the collection. Vivid silks are incorporated, building upon the intense opulence, a fitting colour to finalise the rebirth of the phoenix. Completing the palette, the passionate and fiery shade created a sense of finality to close the runway.

The importance of sustainably is portrayed, the collection uses upcycled fabrics, in keeping with the rapidly changing climate of the industry. The Rise of The Phoenix offers an immaculate blend of couture craftsmanship and ready to wear design, a true testament to the versatility of the designer.

Creating a connection between concept and audience, AW20 leaves us with a burning desire to see more, pushing the fiery nature of the phoenix through the signature designs of Malan Breton.

Photographer - Henry Nash

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