For AW20 Jiri Kalfar transports us to paradise, uncompromised, gentle and warm the essence of the Garden of Eden, the concept behind the collection, sooths our soul as each garment glides down the runway. Romance is prominent, a rush of blissful euphoria is experienced as you witness Kalfar’s collection, a tender dream like state is created with design, romance and paradise merging for AW20.
Paying homage to British choreographer, Wayne McGregor, inspiration for AW20 is drawn from McGregors ‘Eden Eden’ show, aiming to recreate the same intense emotions he experienced throughout this performance, Kalfar weaves these sensations into the fabrics embedding passion within the garments, offering an adapted take through design.
Full body suits and masks, encrusted with jewels, showcase a blinding array of sparkle as they strut down the runway. Rich greens offer a prominent nod to lush greenery, Buddhist peace silk is incorporated offering a sheen to garments, a subtle notion to dewy mornings in the Garden of Eden.
Fresh floral prints are worked onto fabrics complimented by an elegant colour palette of pinks, red, golds, nudes and blacks. Ruffles, mesh and floral embroideries combine with the playful shades and complex cuts, offering a clear link to nature, trees and flowers, enabling Kalfar to build his Garden of Eden visual.
Lightweight fabrics flow gently contributing a beautiful delicacy to the piece, we are offered the subtle signification of a gentle breeze flowing through the Garden and a link to the grace of the dancers who inspired Kalfar’s collection.
Taking us back to reality we are made aware that this reimagination of Eden is an experience now only possible with the assistance of technology. A realisation of the state of the world hits us, we immerse ourselves in Kalfar’s collection, a desperate attempt to experience the notion of paradise.
Black shades within the collection add additional complexity to the concept, a more sinister feature, possibly representative of a darkening world, transitioning further and further away from paradise and the Garden of Eden, reliant on technology, much like the production of this collection was.
The demi-couture collection offers a combination of haute couture techniques, embroidery and hand stitching combine with modern day technology. Furthering the notion of a natural world, Kalfar ensures sustainability is a prominent factor within this collection. Sustainable materials, including cruelty free peace silk, organically dyed fabrics and upcycled pieces build the collection. Conscious of his carbon footprint, SS20 is made with locally produced and manufactured materials, including exquisite bohemian crystals provided by Preciosa.
“Change starts with the person looking back at you in the mirror - you must be the change that you want to see in the world” – Jiri Kalfar