Ones to Watch SS20 | Gala Borovic, IA London, Studio Adaptive Skins and AV

Showcasing a globally acclaimed range of award-winning upcoming designers Fashion Scout held their 13th season of the Ones To Watch catwalk displaying the four winners of AW19 on September 13th at Victoria House. Becoming one of the most anticipated shows during London Fashion Week everyone gasped on the edge of their seat eager to glimpse at designers: Gala Borovic, IA London, Studio Adaptive Skins and AV.

AV whimpered around the theme of female curiosity during the show, alongside using hugging materials and close-fitted silhouettes the collection flourished with a secret sense around the female body. Designer Vincent Lapp from the French Bordeaux aims to deliver mindful fashion, tackling society absurdities, engaging in sustainable essentials through his couture label AV.

Ranging the design cuts to either expose or cover the model's sexuality within the anti-fanaticism statement collection, one outfit conveyed complete isolation by covering the model's body and face in a light gold morph suit under a bright orange wide-spread dress. Another outfit span the ideologies around by designing an extremely high crop top hemmed around the nipple-line, with this was paired with a white mesh dress and tight black pencil skirt revoking Lapp's development nurtured from the French movie 'Le Ciel Attendra', which depicts how false promises and deceit can lead young girls to the path of radicalism and obscurantism.

Springing light and colour onto the runway Gala Borovic dropped rainbows into the London Fashion Week equation, with multilayering techniques and matching colour schemes the collection looked clean, polished and playful. Calling her brand a symbolistic 'adult playground' Gala reiterates this with her modern outlook on textile, print and concept design as she completely captures the intimacy of essential life moments.

Pulling inspiration from a 2015 private art studio "The Base" the collection deemed representations of modern space or the justified escape from reality, taking on a range of diverse forms originated by "The Base". With designs matching all elements of the art studio, it delivered draped figures and exaggerated body elements to represent "The Base" further. Along with the sharped prints and soft fabrics Gala also followed the chaotic nature of the inspiration, subject to constant transformations and sudden changes in appearance from each and every angle.

Freaking-up the scene was brand IA London founded in 2017, who isolates themselves with uniqueness and authenticity on the runway. Using face masks and theatrical movements alongside the unusual eye-catching designs the collection wasn't easily forgotten. The artistic content displayed resembles the avant-garde elements of London's Fashion Week in which Cambridge-based designer Ira Iceberg delivers perfectly. Using solo design techniques all the garments are created, digitally printed and directed by Iceberg herself, these paintings become the surface of IA's distinctive appearance, unprecedentedly integrating fashion and art.

The SS20 collection "I'm Bias-Blind" is inspired by King Lear's blind tale. The famous theme of producing a situation in which those with healthy eyes are ignorant of what is going on around them, those without vision and appear to 'see' the clearest. These symbolic messages are not ignored within the collection including extravagant eye-masks, oversized silhouettes, childlike accessories, baby printed textiles and layers of sheer fabrics.

Studio Adaptive Skins founded in 2018 by designer Jef Montes manifests ideals around sustainbility, architecture with a strong emphasis on responsive materials. Forming an approach on crafting shape and material other than cutting patterns out of 2D fabrics, the textiles are structured around the models to scheme the ideologies around human surroundings, body, light, energy, areas, acoustics and climate. Looking towards high fashion, wearable designs and material installation the SS20 collection advertised sustainability and upcycling within a label.

Crafted around the past, present and future it takes inspiration from a previous collection Le Moreneta depicting Madonna with a child on her lap, Montes believes that working on archived pieces is a way of working to keep putting love into desgins. Adapting with minimalistic colour schemes throughout the collection Montes uses the sophistication and metallic-like status of high fashion alongside re-using sea materials to create such beautiful garments.

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